In April, I made a sweater for my friend Rebecca's newborn baby. I gave it to her on the condition that she would give me a photograph of Baby Ella in said sweater, but motherhood got away from her, and Ella has now outgrown the sweater. Sadness. So the photos are babyless, but I think that now that the leaves are changing and apple pies are baking, it's finally time to post this pattern.
Pattern:
Choose whichever needle size for whichever size sweater you are making, and follow the pattern from there.
CO 55 sts
Work 2 rows in seed stitch (Rows 1 & 2: *k1, p1; repeat from * to end of row, end k1.)
K1, p1, yo, p2tog, continue in seed stitch to end of row.
Work 3 rows in seed stitch.
R1: (WS): k1, p1, k1, p4, *k1, p3; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
R2: k1, p1, k1, p1, *k1, (yo, k1) 2X, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1. (79 stitches)
R3: k1, p1, k1, p6, *k1, p5; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
R4: k1, p1, k1, p1, *k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1. (103 sts)
R5: k1, p1, k1, p8, *k1, p7; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
R6: k1, p1, k1, p1, *k7, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1.
R7: Repeat row 5.
R8:k1, p1, k1, p1, *k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1. (127 sts)
R9: k1, p1, k1, p10, *k1, p9; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
R10: (buttonhole row) k1, p1, k1, p1, *k9, p1; repeat from * to last 13 sts, end k9, p2tog, yo, p1, k1.
R11: Repeat row 9.
R12:k1, p1, k1, p1, *k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1. (151 sts)
R13:k1, p1, k1, p12, *k1, p11; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
R14:k1, p1, k1, p1, *k11, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1.
R15: Repeat row 13.
R16:k1, p1, k1, *p1, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1. (151 sts--stitch count unchanged)
R17:k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, *p9, k3; repeat from * to last 14 sts, end p9, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.
R18:k1, p1, k1, p2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, *yo, p3, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog; repeat from * to last 5 sts, end yo, p2, k1, p1, k1.
R19:k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p7, *k2, p1, k2, p7; repeat from * to last 6 sts, end k2, p1, k1, p1, k1.
R20: k1, p1, k1, p3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, *yo, p2, k1, p2, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog; repeat from * to last 6 sts, end yo, p3, k1, p1, k1.
R21:k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p5, *k2, p3, k2, p5; repeat from * to last 7 sts, end k2, p2, k1, p1, k1.
R22:k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, yo, ssk, k1 k2tog, *yo p2, k3, p2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog; repeat from * to last 7 sts, end yo, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.
R23: (buttonhole row): k1, p1, yo, p2tog, p2, k2, p3, *k2, p5, k2, p3; repeat from * to last 8 sts, end k2, p3, k1, p1, k1.
R24: k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p2, yo, sl-k2tog-psso, *yo, p2, k5, p2, yo, sl-k2tog-psso; repeat from * to last 8 sts, end yo, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1.
R25: k1, p1, k1, p4, k2, p1, *k2, p7, k2, p1;* to last 9 sts, end k2, p4, k1, p1, k1.
R26:k1, p1, k1, p1, k to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
(You can click on the chart to enlarge it.)
You should still have 151 sts on the needle at this point.
Sleeves:
R1: k1, p1, k1, p15. Slip next 36 sts onto a stitch holder, p43, slip next 36 sts onto stitch holder, p15, k1, p1, k1.
R2: k1, p1, k1, p1, k13, m1, place marker, k1, k stitch on left needle across from held stitches, place marker, m1, k41, m1, place marker, k1, k stitch on left needle across from held stitches, place marker, m1, k13, p1, k1, p1, k1. (83 sts on needle).
R3: k1, p1, k1, p to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1.
R4: k1, p1, k1, p1, k to marker, m1, sl marker, k2, sl marker, m1, k to marker, m1, sl marker, k2, sl marker, m1, k to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
Repeat rows 3 & 4 two times more.
R5: k1, p1, k1, p to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1.
R6: (buttonhole row) k1, p1, k1, p1, k to last 4 sts, end p2tog, yo, p1, k1.
Repeat rows 3-6 until piece measures 8.5, 10.5, (12.5) inches from back of neck, or whatever length you prefer.
AT THE SAME TIME, after your first row 6, every 13 rows/every two inches, create a buttonhole as you have done throughout.
Knit 3 rows in seed stitch.
Work buttonhole row in seed stitch.
Knit 2 rows in seed stitch.
BO all sts.
Sleeves, continued:
Place held stitches for right sleeve on needle.
With RS facing, attach yarn.
K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Purl one row.
Work three rows in seed stitch.
BO all sts.
Repeat for left sleeve.
Sew sleeve seams, stitch up arm holes under the arms. Weave in all ends. Block as needed, and sew on buttons opposite buttonholes.
I came across a mysterious tweedy wool with all the colors of Fall, and loved it. Though of course the leaves on the yoke could easily be spring green or even flower petals.
Don’t be dismayed by the number of rows in this pattern—it’s actually very intuitive. And now, thanks to the spectacular efforts of Lily Ryan, we have a chart!
Sizes:
6-9 months, 9-12 months, (12-15 months)
Materials:
200, 250, (300) yards DK, DK or worsted weight depending on how tight you like your weave, (worsted weight) wool.
US 5 20-in circular needle, US 7, (US 9)
Tapestry needle
4 stitch markers
6, 7, (8) buttons
Gauge:
24.5 sts/32.5 rows=4 inches using US 5 needles, 18 sts/29 rows=4 inches using US 7 needles, (15.5 sts/23 rows=4 inches using US 9 needles).
Pattern:
Choose whichever needle size for whichever size sweater you are making, and follow the pattern from there.
CO 55 sts
Work 2 rows in seed stitch (Rows 1 & 2: *k1, p1; repeat from * to end of row, end k1.)
K1, p1, yo, p2tog, continue in seed stitch to end of row.
Work 3 rows in seed stitch.
R1: (WS): k1, p1, k1, p4, *k1, p3; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
R2: k1, p1, k1, p1, *k1, (yo, k1) 2X, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1. (79 stitches)
R3: k1, p1, k1, p6, *k1, p5; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
R4: k1, p1, k1, p1, *k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1. (103 sts)
R5: k1, p1, k1, p8, *k1, p7; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
R6: k1, p1, k1, p1, *k7, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1.
R7: Repeat row 5.
R8:k1, p1, k1, p1, *k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1. (127 sts)
R9: k1, p1, k1, p10, *k1, p9; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
R10: (buttonhole row) k1, p1, k1, p1, *k9, p1; repeat from * to last 13 sts, end k9, p2tog, yo, p1, k1.
R11: Repeat row 9.
R12:k1, p1, k1, p1, *k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1. (151 sts)
R13:k1, p1, k1, p12, *k1, p11; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
R14:k1, p1, k1, p1, *k11, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1.
R15: Repeat row 13.
R16:k1, p1, k1, *p1, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1. (151 sts--stitch count unchanged)
R17:k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, *p9, k3; repeat from * to last 14 sts, end p9, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.
R18:k1, p1, k1, p2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, *yo, p3, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog; repeat from * to last 5 sts, end yo, p2, k1, p1, k1.
R19:k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p7, *k2, p1, k2, p7; repeat from * to last 6 sts, end k2, p1, k1, p1, k1.
R20: k1, p1, k1, p3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, *yo, p2, k1, p2, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog; repeat from * to last 6 sts, end yo, p3, k1, p1, k1.
R21:k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p5, *k2, p3, k2, p5; repeat from * to last 7 sts, end k2, p2, k1, p1, k1.
R22:k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, yo, ssk, k1 k2tog, *yo p2, k3, p2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog; repeat from * to last 7 sts, end yo, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.
R23: (buttonhole row): k1, p1, yo, p2tog, p2, k2, p3, *k2, p5, k2, p3; repeat from * to last 8 sts, end k2, p3, k1, p1, k1.
R24: k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p2, yo, sl-k2tog-psso, *yo, p2, k5, p2, yo, sl-k2tog-psso; repeat from * to last 8 sts, end yo, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1.
R25: k1, p1, k1, p4, k2, p1, *k2, p7, k2, p1;* to last 9 sts, end k2, p4, k1, p1, k1.
R26:k1, p1, k1, p1, k to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
You should still have 151 sts on the needle at this point.
Sleeves:
R1: k1, p1, k1, p15. Slip next 36 sts onto a stitch holder, p43, slip next 36 sts onto stitch holder, p15, k1, p1, k1.
R2: k1, p1, k1, p1, k13, m1, place marker, k1, k stitch on left needle across from held stitches, place marker, m1, k41, m1, place marker, k1, k stitch on left needle across from held stitches, place marker, m1, k13, p1, k1, p1, k1. (83 sts on needle).
R3: k1, p1, k1, p to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1.
R4: k1, p1, k1, p1, k to marker, m1, sl marker, k2, sl marker, m1, k to marker, m1, sl marker, k2, sl marker, m1, k to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1.
Repeat rows 3 & 4 two times more.
R5: k1, p1, k1, p to last 3 sts, end k1, p1, k1.
R6: (buttonhole row) k1, p1, k1, p1, k to last 4 sts, end p2tog, yo, p1, k1.
Repeat rows 3-6 until piece measures 8.5, 10.5, (12.5) inches from back of neck, or whatever length you prefer.
AT THE SAME TIME, after your first row 6, every 13 rows/every two inches, create a buttonhole as you have done throughout.
Knit 3 rows in seed stitch.
Work buttonhole row in seed stitch.
Knit 2 rows in seed stitch.
BO all sts.
Sleeves, continued:
Place held stitches for right sleeve on needle.
With RS facing, attach yarn.
K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Purl one row.
Work three rows in seed stitch.
BO all sts.
Repeat for left sleeve.
Sew sleeve seams, stitch up arm holes under the arms. Weave in all ends. Block as needed, and sew on buttons opposite buttonholes.
139 comments:
A beautiful sweater...just what I was looking for. Thanks for sharing!
What a pretty baby sweater. I have a little girl in mind for this beautiful pattern. Thank you!
This is so pretty! I have been trying without success to find the Leaf Yoke Cardigan by Nashua Handknits at several local yarn shops. I like yours better. Thanks very much:)
Thanks for sharing the pattern! It's so cute. I'm going to knit one up after I finish my tomten jacket.
A very beautiful sweater. I love the leaf design. My girls are 7 & 5 yrs. old. I'm going to make a bigger one. Thank you for sharing the pattern. Melca
Love the sweater!!! Very cute!
This is a lovely sweater..no baby girl in mind, but will have to knit this next...Thank you!
Thank you for sharing the pattern! By the way - I love the little green booties on your blog - what is the pattern for those?
It's a pattern called Saartje's Bootees--super cute and free!
http://www.saartjeknits.nl/
I love this sweater,could you make the sleeves long?
Absolutely--you could simply keep knitting the sleeves in stockinette, probably decreasing every 6 rows or so, until you've reached the desired length and width, work the seed stitch cuff, and bind off!
I love this pattern so much! Thank you for posting it and I love that you posted varying needle sizes instead of just having more stitches for bigger sizes! awesome
Help. Does anyone have any errata for this pattern? Maybe I'm just confused, but I had trouble getting rows 13 and 16 to come out right (that's as far as I've got).
I love this design, I have been looking for something similar to this for years....clever you! My daughter, now 33, was given a hand knitted cardigan similar to this when she was born!
That is *so* sweet. Thank you for sharing your pattern.
I'm up to row 16 and loving this pattern so far! I'm using straights instead though. I don't know why people are having problems with rows 13 and 16? They work fine for me. Although some of the directions are wrong for keeping the seed stitch borders right - k1p1 are reversed. But it's no problem to fix. Thanks for sharing it!
lovely pattern!
but i think there's a mistake in row 10, it should be rep to last 13 stitches, not 15
This sweater is to DIE for - Thanks so much for posting the pattern!
I've done a little tinkering on it... my great-niece is due in late August, so I wanted a long sleeve version, but I hate sewing up seams... soooo.... I picked up the arm stitched onto my long circ's, and used Magic Loop technique to knit the arms long, with no seam to sew. It's come out just great! You can check out the results by viewing my project pictures at Ravelry.com
I'm listed as "marybahai9"
Thanks again for a BEAUTIFUL sweater!
Thanks for this very cute pattern - I'm just finishing the sleeves on one in apple green!
Should there be a few rows of plain knitting after row 26, and before dividing for the sleeves? The pictures look like there are more than two rows between the leaf pattern and the moss stitch, which is what I ended up with when following the pattern.
There actually aren't any extra rows in there--it's an illusion of the yoke. However, you could totally make the sleeves as long as you want, and put in a few more rows before going into the seed stitch...
Thanks for such a great pattern! I'll make one for our first baby, I'm due in about 4 weeks. Off to the yarn store...
Thank you very much for this nice sweater...
I hope I ll be able to translate because English is quiet difficult for me...
Thank you so much for the beautiful pattern! I am on row 16 and am unsure how to skp (skip I think). Can you recommend the best way to skip a stitch for this pattern? Thanks again for sharing your wonderful design.
Hi there,
skp is slip one st, k1, pass slipped stitch over. Basically you slide the next stitch over to your right hand needle as if you were going to knit it, knit the next stitch, and then using your left hand needle, pass the slipped stitch over the stitch you just knit--one stitch decreased.
Other people probably have better explanations--google skp, or slip-knit-pass
Back to row 16, I'm past the skp. But between the *'s you are to decrease and increase 2 stitches. If I follow the directions and yo ofter the k2tog and then p, you don't increase. Should I go directly from a k to a p without a yo? Please help, I just found out I need to make two more of these as my niece is having twins in Aug!!
Hi there,
I'm not sure exactly what trouble it is you're having. Looking at R16, there are two yarnovers within the repeat section: the one right before the skp, and the one right after the k2tog.
I guess a problem you may be having (and this is one I used to have all the time) is that you're yarnovering so that there is no yarnover when you go to work the purl stitch; in that instance, all you do for the yarnover before the p1 is leave the yarn at the back of the work, and p1, bringing it around and creating a yarnover that way. Does that help at all?
R16:k1, p1, k1, *p1, yo, skp, k7, k2tog, yo; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end p1, k1, p1, k1. (151 sts--stitch count unchanged)
Thank you. I always yo when changing from k to p. Learned when I was a litle girl. It's a beautiful sweater. Thank you for sharing.
I was still having problems until I decided to yo twice. Problem solved. Thank you.
What an incredibly beautiful sweater. How genearous to share it with the public at large. Thank you.
Please could you tell me how many grams (or ounces) of wool you used for this, for the smallest size? I've tried converting it, but that seems to be way too much wool and I can't work it out.
So beautiful. Making it for my first grandchild!!!
THANKS!
Thanks so much for posting this pattern - it is so cute - there are a lot of "Leaf" patterns around but this is particularly nice.
(No1grandma on Ravelry)
Thank you for this pattern... I've been looking for a sweater pattern for my new-born fourth baby. This is it!
Hello,
beginner knitting, I love your design very original, but I can not make because my English is too approximate. a French translation is envisaged?
Again sorry for my approximate English
thank you very much
Laurence
Dear Laurence,
I'm afraid my French is 8th grade level at best and not up to the job! I believe it has been knit by a French person before...perhaps if you do a google search for the pattern, you can find them and see if they can help you out.
Sorry!
I am a little confused with the seed stitch at the beginning. Do you work 2 rows of K1,P1 and then one row with K1, p1, yo, p2tog at the beginning followed by K1,P1 for the remainder of the row. And then another 3 rows of k1,p1 - which would make 6 rows in total?? Does R1, R2, etc apply to the main pattern (not seed stitch)?
Hi Liz,
You've got it exactly right--the seed stitch collar goes on for six rows, including a buttonhole row, and then R1 begins the yoke pattern.
hi,the sweater looks very cute.I am planning to do for my daughter.IS this the whole parttern or there is seprate for back and front?
So beautiful ! Thank you ! for this pattern !
Hi,
Is there any way to alter this pattern for a 5 year old?
I wanted to make one for my little niece - it looks SO cute! But not sure if I should just use a bigger size needles, or make changes to the actual pattern when knitting.
Can anyone help please?
Thanks! :)
I have a stupid question. Do you attach separate balls of yarn when you place the sleeve stitches on a stitch holder to continue working down each side of the body? Thanks for you help!
Hello there, beautiful sweater, i have one question, i'm at the break on sleeves and have just finished my first set of R3,R4 repeat twice more then R5,R6. Do i knit R3,R4 repeat twice then R5,R6 until done? or R3,R4,R5,R6? I'm stuck until i hear back,
Thank Trish
Hi Trish,
You work R3, R4 twice, and then R3, R4, R5, R6.
Nikki
I found you through Ravelry and am so happy you offer this pattern here!
I was looking for something to help me get into baby clothes and this might just be it.
You are an artist, no doubt!
Hello ton modèle est extra!!!thank you very very much!!!
je le fait en robe(an dress autumn leaves for my little fille)
This pattern is so great!! Thank you! I knitted one pink dress and now I´m planning to knit another one. I´m expecting twin girls..
Thank you for posting this! I just stumbled across it, and this pattern is perfect for what I need! Poster above me, congratulations, and best of luck with your twin girls!
Absolutely adorable. I found it on Ravelry & need something for a lady having a baby at my Church. Thank you for the free pattern!
I fell in love with this design the minute I saw it. Even though there's no one I can gift this to, I still made it. The result is adorable. Thank you so much for sharing this design.
Me cuesta trabajo saber el significado de algunas puntadas como k1 p1 m1 t1 y demas si me puedes ayudar a saber el significado,yo puedo tejer este bello sueter para mi sobrinita,gracias. Carmenfrancobaker@yahoo.com
Just finished this sweater as a baby shower gift. Perfect! It only took a few days and used only 200 yds (approx) of DK wool. I still have so much yarn left I'm about to make a second one. Thanks for the pattern!
A beautiful sweater, I'm enjoying making it. I just have a question about the body after the sleeve stitches are put on holders.
"AT THE SAME TIME, after your first row 6, every 13 rows/every two inches, create a buttonhole as you have done throughout."
Is the buttonhole row always on a row 6? 13 rows would put it on a row 3 I think, unless I am counting it wrong?
thanks again.
It's not every row 6, that's just when you start counting for the buttonholes. It would indeed be row 3.
so would every subsequent row 6 end with p1, k1, p1, k1
thanks
Yep, absolutely (unless of course it ends up being a buttonhole row again--it may not, I just don't have a calculator handy)
sorry, I'm being a pest but how do you do the buttonhole on a row 3 which ends k1,p1,k1?
I really appreciate your help.
you just work the yarnover as a purl yarnover instead, keeping the seed stitch pattern correct.
I love this sweater! Saw it at a Kaneohe Yarn shop and had to make it for my future granddaughter expected to arrive in March. Fun and easy and I am so proud! Thanks so much for sharing your creations with us! Aloha!
In all the years that I have been knitting (50), I have never come across 2X and what dose it mean.
And the other think that I could not find is abbreviations
I haven't posted the abbreviations as this is a free pattern. But 2X means "two times," as in work the stitches in the parentheses twice.
Hi. I've just started the sleeve section and am not sure of the instructions.
Where is says repeat rows 3-6, does this include the 2 repeats of rows 3 and 4? If it does that means I should work R3, R4, R3, R4, R3, R4, R5, R6 and repeat this until it is the right length. Is that right?
Hi Emily,
It does NOT include the two repeats of rows 3 & 4--that was just for set-up.
Hi, I have made this sweater at least seven times and am casting on now as I type. Love it. My fav neck down sweater. One thing: I found that if the YOs are worked as is the result is a slight bias. To correct this (and this might sound odd in print) I use a backward YO (from back to front) after the k2tog and before any purl stitch. This way all the yo holes are the same size. I also add a roll collar by working in stockinette stitch for 6-8 rows. The whole thing is great at 4 stitches per inch. For an older kid. Thnks so much. C
I am also struggling with that pesky Row 16! My sweater is just not looking right. I've taken out several rows to get back to where my trouble seems to begin and it is at Row16. Since my yarn is already in the "purl position" should I YO again?? My count does come out correct at 151, but it really seems odd and begins to not look right. I hesitate to go ahead and have to take it out again! Help please! I've read through the comments and still can't figure out the YO when I am already in the YO position!
As far as I can tell you're doing it exactly right--your yarn is in the front, having just worked a purl stitch, and so all set for a yarnover--there's no need to flip it over again. If your stitch count is coming out right, it should be fine.
The row may look a bit wonky, but have you tried knitting a few rows past? Does it sort itself out?
Thanks for your quick response! Yes, I actually got to Row 21 and "unknit" clear back to Row 16! I must be making an error somewhere else to get the 151 count. The knitting began to look out of place and weird...maybe it's just me!Plus I don't seem to be getting the "look" of the other completed projects showing on Ravelry.I love this sweater and would like to figure it out!Thanks again!
What a sweet sweater! Thanks for making it available to everyone like this! I'm making it for a friend's new baby girl :)
Just one thing, the chart of the leaf pattern yoke shows the seed stitch edging at the end of the right side rows as K1, P1, K1, P1 and at the beginning of the wrong side rows as P1, K1, P1, K1.
I think it should be just the opposite, no? Otherwise in the transition from row 6 of the seed stitch neck band to row 1 of the leaf pattern you would have a row of stockingette stitch.
Maybe I am reading it wrong, as no one else seems to have had problems with this.....
lovely little sweater,will have to make it. I knit things for charity.
I've found the pattern to be crystal clear so far, but can anybody help with the instructions for R2 of the sleeves, where it says to "k stitch on left needle across from held stitches"??
You're creating the sleeve by folding together the held stitches, and knitting the next stitch on your circular needle.
Hi! First, thank you so much for such a beautiful free pattern! I do have a quick question though... I'm having trouble on row 16 with getting the stitch count right, and keeping it that way afterwards. I noticed in the previous comments that you mentioned that tow 16 said to 'skp', but when I look at the pattern it says to 'ssk'. Did the pattern get updated over time? Could that possibly have something to do with why I'm messing up the stitch counts?
Well, both skp and ssk are one-stitch decreases, so that shouldn't affect your stitch count. It's possible you're not knitting into your yarnovers--that's a little tricky.
I love this pattern! I'm a little confused about thing starting at the sleeves, R2. I had the right number when I divided for the sleeves. But in R2 of the sleeve part, it says 83 stitches on the needle. I have 87 if I do all the m1.
And what is "k stitch on left needle across from held stitches?" When I slipped 36 sleeve stitches and then P43, I already brought the armpit stitches together. So I'm just knitting in the row.
I'm sorry to have so many questions. But if I do the right number of stitches, I only have 1 stitch between the markers. Does that really matter? Does the side "seam" look very different with 2 or 1 stitches btw "m1"s?
Hi MoniKitten,
I think you may be doing more m1's than are called for--I just went over the math as the pattern is written, and 83 is correct.
You are doing absolutely fine knitting across the held stitches in a row--don't worry about that. I also wouldn't worry about your extra stitches; if you think it's working fine with the side seams as you have them, then stick with it! It will be slightly roomier, but not much.
rThanks for the reply, Nikki!
I am confounded by my stitch count issues but I "fixed" it to fit- I did fewer "k1"s and made it 83. I only have 4 "m1"s total.
I'm sorry but I have two more questions:
1) The way I did it, I ended up with 1 stitch between the markers instead of 2. So it's "m1, slip marker, k1 (instead of k2), slip marker, m1. Do you think this will make the seam look weird?
2) After dividing for the sleeves, there are 4 rows. Then you say "repeat rows 3&4 two more times." And then AFTER that it has rows 5&6, and then "Repeat rows 3-6 until piece measures 8.5, 10.5, (12.5) inches from back of neck, or whatever length you prefer." So I'm actually repeating the entire thing row 3, 4, 5, and 6? I saw some comments that confused me about this issue.
Thank you so much for answering questions on here. This pattern is so beautiful and I love it!
I think that will be fine. And yes, it looks to me like you're working the pattern exactly right.
Thank you!!!
I finished the sweater last night. It is SO cute. The yoke design is just gorgeous. I can't wait to see it on my daughter! I sized it so she'll grow into it by the time it's cool. Thanks again for the assistance and for the great pattern.
...and now I've knitted this one too! You make really great patterns :) Thank you again for sharing! :) Love, Jenny
Hey, I wanted to thank you again and show you my finished product. I FINALLY put the buttons on and my daughter (15 mos) got to wear it today. Here is a link to my Flickr album where you can see an image: http://www.flickr.com/photos/24390483@N07/8323742381/
Hi Nikki, this cardi is beautiful!
I've a problem with Row 2 of chart, I Haven't 79 stitches in total, but 71, one leaf less. I'm sure I've understood the chart, I've knitted "yo, k1" in the parenthesis twice.
What do I have to do for solving this problem?
I cast on 61 stitches instead 55 so I have 79 stitches in row 2 or I cast on 55 stitches but I have 71 stitches?
Thank you!
Hi Rebi,
Well, the way it's written, you knit across the chart, and work the yarnovers, and repeat from there until you have 3 sts left. So you should work that repeat section far more than twice...
I believe that's where you've run into trouble, but honestly it's very hard for me to diagnose the problem when I can't see your work. I would suggest bringing the pattern and your WIP to your local yarn shop.
All best,
Nikki
I am having the same problem as Momkitten, i am confused, when you separate the sleeves out, the middle portion is 43, but on row 2 you have 41. I have taken it out and started from R1 several times to make sure the numbers are correct, and I too come out with extra stitches and I didn't make more than the m1 (4).
Well, check out my response on 7/16--if you're doing more m1's than is called for, I'm not sure what to tell you. My math (and I've gone over it a few times now) works out as the pattern is written.
If you're off, however, I don't think it's a big deal--just carry on.
Hi! I have a question about the underarms. I've been working from the pattern in the book, and it says to cast on 8 stitches after putting the sleeve stitches on a holder. So now, when I go back to finish the sleeves, what do I do there? Do I pick up stitches where those extra 8 stitches are? Or do I just knit the held sleeve stitches?
Hi Peggy,
You just knit the sleeves as written--you are going to cast off 4 sts at each end, and those 4 sts are going to be sewn onto the 8 body sts under the arm.
I saw this made up in my local yarn store and loved it! Alas, my granddaughters are no longer babies. Has anyone made this and altered the pattern to fit a 2, 4, or 8 year old?
What is the difference between casting on 8 stitches for each sleeve as per book and knitting them the way this pattern indicates? I am on my second sweater about to be at that point. First one I did as per the book. Thanks.
The pattern in the book has a little more room under the arms, making it a bit more comfortable, and eases into the swing a little more organically--and it's not as wide, so it fits a bit better.
Lovely pattern-I've just had to copy and paste it though to enlarge it for my craft group who are all older people and don't see too well. I hope that's ok.
That's absolutely fine!
Es un modelo maravilloso y me encantarÃa poder tejerlo pero ¿qué significa K1? Ojala alguna persona me responda.
Hi Nikki,
I'm a beginner knitter and this is my first attempt at something g more difficult than a hat or blanket.
I also seem to be struggling with row 16. I understand that when you YO before a purl stitch you wrap wool around needle to create extra stitch. Then after purl stitch it says YO again. Am I wrapping the wool around the right needle again twice or just leaving it on front rather than putting it back as if to knit? It's just I seem to have ended the row with 157 stitches that's all.
Amazing pattern and I LOVE your book - am working though to make items for my soon to be born niece!
First of all, congratulations on your coming niece!
You just leave the yarn in place, so as to wrap it around the needle to form another stitch. It's actually trickiest on the next row, where you need to make sure you knit through the newly created stitch. So watch out for that...
Hi Nikki - this is a beautiful pattern, thank you for sharing.
I am also having the same problem as Remy above, I can't get to 79 stitches from a base of 55... I also get to 71 when doing two yarn overs per leaf. Do I also need to add a third yarn over in somewhere? Mathematically it seems it needs three extra stitches to get from 55 to 79...?
Thanks for your help!
^^On the above comment, not to worry, I have followed the advice of Anonymous on February 15, 2012 and that sorts the issue out.
I need to do a backward yo before I purl between each leaf to get the extra stitch.
Thanks again for the pattern!
Hi! This is such an adorable sweater! I am making it for a friend's daughter and due to my inexperience, I am stuck! I have completed the body of the cardigan, which has turned out wonderfully, but I am unclear on how to add the yarn for the sleeves! Is there anyway you could walk me through this or post a link to a youtube video? I've tried searching online and have come up empty handed! Thanks so much for posting this!!
Hi Nancy,
I'm not exactly sure what you're having trouble with...is it when you've finished the yoke and you're moving on to the bottom of the sweater? It's fairly simple--you create the sleeves by pulling together the cast-off stitches. Just knit the next live stitch on your needles, pulling tight.
Of course, if this isn't where you're having trouble, let me know!
Hey Nikki! Thanks for your response! I have actually completed the entire sweater minus the sleeves. I just need to know how to add on the yarn for the sleeves. Does that make sense? Thanks!
I tried to figure out he to do the buttonhole by reading your answer to another comment but just don't get it. So I get repeating 3-6 until I get 2 inches but then how do I modify whatever row I'm on?....sorry ths is my first time!
Work Rows 1-6, Make a note of where you are, then begin working 3-6 over and over. Keep track of your rows as you go, and when you've reached 13 rows from the place where you marked, work another buttonhole row. And just keep going in that way.
(Alternatively, if this is confusing, you can just use the buttonholes at the yoke and leave the sweater hanging open--lots of knitters prefer it that way, and then you have no more buttonholes to do!).
Thanks for lovely Autumn Leaves pattern in your book ’What to Knit When You're Expecting'. I found it easier to follow when I could get my head around how the new row lined up with the centre of the pattern of the previous row. By the way, for you're next edition, Row 22 has 4 typos. They have put ' yb' instead of 'yo' which confused me at first, until I compared it to the same row on your web version.
Do you mind if I sell any items I make from this pattern? It's so cute!
Hi there,
That's very flattering, but I'm afraid the pattern cannot be used to sell any items.
Thank you.
Alright..thank you.
Getting ready to make this beautiful sweater and have some questions:
What is "m1" on R2 of the sleeves?
Should I cast on 8 stitches befor and after the p43 after the sleeves have been placed on a holder to add some room under the arms or should I cast on 8 stitches and then put the 36 sleeve stitches onto a holder, p43, cast on 8 stitches and then place the 36 stitches on a holder?
Looks like R16 is the complicated row. Sure hope I sail through it. I will be on a cruise while I am making this sweater and won't have any internet to seek help!!!
Thanks for all the help that has been posted.
Hi Jo,
M1 means "make one." It's an increase--here's a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7oABJLKZtw
For the underarm cast on, just do whatever is most comfortable for you--if it's easiest to do it after you transfer the stitches, go right ahead, or if it's better to do it before, then that works too.
You can do it!!!
I made this cute sweater and ended up with the first buttonhole on the opposite side as the others. Reading through I still can't get it to work if doing the first one on the 3rd row.
I kept looking at pattern and must be out of synch.
Must be that I'm used to seeing BACK: Left FRONT, Right ... etc.
But on this adorable pattern, I see one CO 55 and then sleeves - but do see Buttonholes, which means Fronts are there somewhere! LOL
Hi nikki
I am Bhagirathy from INDIA. I am a grand mother of 4 grand children. i do a lot of knitting and crochet. I love this Autumn leaves sweater very much. Is it possible to get a Pdf printable copy of this pattern ? my email id is bhagi7777@yahoo.co.in
Thanks so much for sharing this pattern
I'm sorry--this is the only way I can make this version available, because of my contract with my publisher. You can, however, just print it out from here.
What is the purpose of having the markers? I may be missing something but it looks to me like they are not used for anything. Thank you.
Well, I'm not sure where you are, but eventually they're going to be used for increases.
Hi Nikki, thanks for replying. I was missing the m1 stitches....my mistake. My cardigan is looking beautiful. I'm using a malabrigo ochre color yarn. Thanks! Zaida.
Hi,
I purchased your book and have been trying to make this for my little girl. I have been stuck on r22 because I couldn't figure out how yb p2 as it states in the book. When I went in search of help I found your website. This pattern has different instructions than what the book has. For instance, r22 says to yo instead of yb and it says ssk instead of sl 1 k1 psso. Is this a different version than what is in published in the book? Please help
This is a different version from what is in the book--the book version is slightly improved ;)
However, the differences you're citing are very small--two different slanting decreases, and a different way of saying the same thing--I was trying to make it a bit clearer in the book.
What you need to do on Row 22 is purl the next stitch from the yarn in back. Much like when you bring the yarn to the front and then knit the next stitch, you create a yarnover. This is the same thing, just doing it into a purl stitch. So hold your yarn in back, and then purl, creating a yarnover.
You should know that when it comes time to work that yarnover on the next row, it can be a little hard to find--it doesn't sit right on the needle like a knit yarnover does. So just keep an eye out for it, and remember that it's there.
I have knitted this lovely cardigan but unfortunately it was smaller than expected so going to knit the largest size but does he pattern go any bigger. Love the yoke pattern
Thanks for this patter, I will try it, even though ai prefer to read instructions in Spanish
Thanks! I've just finished it :)
Tag #whattoknitwhen in instagram
I've found some errores in the spanish version (book)
This is a beautiful garment, and I would love to have a go, but can someone tell this technophobe how to download the actual pattern please? All I've got is a pile of your comments!! Thankyou, and remember,I am not good with a computer! Regards Sharon North
Hi Sharon,
It is a little tricky! If you load the page and hit print, though, it should print the whole pattern (but it likely will print the comments, too).
That's probably the easiest thing, but it does waste a lot of paper. Otherwise, select the pattern with your mouse (you know, where you click and hold it down and highlight something.) Highlight the whole pattern, then release the mouse. It should stay highlighted. Then on your keyboard press control (or command, if you have a Mac) + C. That'll copy it.
Then open up Microsoft Word or something other word processing program and press control/command + v. That will paste it. And then you can print it without all the comments.
Please help me!
I've attempted this pattern numerous times (from your book) and I always seem to go wrong somewhere between R20 - R23 and I have no idea what's happening! My work always ends up wrong, where I no longer shape the end of the leaves as I end up several stitches too far! Should there always be 151 sts from R12 - R26?
I feel like tearing my hair out, I have no clue as to what is happening as the same thing has happened over and over and I'm following the pattern!
I'm sorry you're so frustrated! That's a miserable feeling. There is some errata for that pattern--here you are:
Page 95. Autumn Leaves. Back and Sides, 2nd “Next Row” is: K1, p1, k1, p1, k18, pm, k51, pm, k18, p1, k1, p1, k1. Work 5 rows straight keeping 4 edge sts in moss st as established.
Back and Sides, 3rd “Next Row” is: *K1, p1, k1, p1 (k to m, m1, sl m, k1, m1) X 2, k to last 4 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1. 99 sts. Work 5 rows straight keeping 4 edge sts in moss st as established. Repeat from * 5 times more. 119 sts.
Thanks so much for your quick reply!
I'm sorry, I haven't managed to get to the Back and sides yet as I am having trouble somewhere between Rows 20 and 23. I can't figure it out but I seem to either have too many stitches or... I don't know. My work is always too far over so the shaping of the leaves isn't where it should be.
Thanks again!
I wonder if you're having trouble knitting the yarnovers form the previous row? When you're doing a yarnover from a purl stitch, it tends to lie oddly, and it can be hard to find and knit. Could that be where the problem is?
If not, I'm afraid it's hard for me to diagnose the problem! Maybe take it to your local yarn store or stitch and bitch and ask for some help!
It could be, I do have 151st continuously which is why I'm so confused...
Love your pattern however I'm at a loss as to what "m1" means in the directions. Help, my friend's baby is due soon.
Hi there,
M1 means "make 1"--it's basically just an increased stitch. You can google how to do that stitch, or you can simply insert a yarnover.
Gorgeous sweater. Thank you so much for sharing it with us.
Back to the M1 question: What is the total number of stitches added?
Thanks!
I'm sorry--I don't understand the question! What row are you referring to? Every time you work an m1, you add a stitch...
After repeating rows R1-R6 in which 4 stitches are added in R2 and R4, and R1-6 are repeated until the piece measures 8.5 inches, what is the total number of stitches that will be on the needle prior to starting "Knit 3 rows in seed stitch"?
Thanks!
Honestly, it depends on your row gauge, for how long it takes you to get to 8.5 inches! You'll add 8 stitches with each repeat of rows 1-6, so that'll help you keep track, and honestly the precise stitch count doesn't really matter at this point in the pattern.
I'm already stuck at row 2 ")
I need a help, i have done the row 1 until to knit in sleeve pattern especially in row 2, is the sleeve will continue into the body or seperately.
Don't you have it in Afrikaans?
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